
Photograph by Farida Zeynalova
Deep in the jungles of Toledo, Belize’s southernmost district, a cultural renaissance is quietly flourishing. Jose Mes, a 44-year-old native of the Maya village of Santa Cruz, is on a mission to preserve his community’s ancient traditions through their storied cuisine, showcasing the sustainable and symbolic foods that have nourished the Maya people for centuries.
Born and raised in the Mopan Maya community, an Indigenous sub-group of the ancient Maya civilization, Jose welcomes visitors into his home to experience the flavors and stories of Belizean Maya culture. Armed with a machete, he guides guests through his two-acre forest garden, introducing them to crops like turmeric, bird pepper, and wild chaya.
“Nature means a lot to us,” Jose shares. “We take care of our land, because the land takes care of us. Food, medicine… It’s the source of everything in our life.”
Visitors are treated to a culinary journey, beginning with a tour of Jose’s garden and culminating in a meal prepared by his wife, Hilda. Their kitchen, built with native palm leaves and local wood, serves as a testament to the resourcefulness and self-reliance of Maya traditions. Ingredients for their meals—including cassava, heart of palm, wild chaya, and xocolatl (a bitter hot chocolate made from cacao)—are harvested fresh, highlighting the natural abundance of the region.
Corn takes center stage in Maya cuisine, with Belize home to 13 varieties of the crop. Archaeological findings near Santa Cruz indicate that Maya people consumed corn as far back as 6,400 years ago. Safeguarding these ancient agricultural practices is critical for preserving cultural identity, a challenge that Jose takes seriously.
“Many of the younger generation don’t know how to use the land,” Jose explains. To address this, educational programs like the Tumul K’in Center of Learning in nearby Blue Creek are teaching young Maya traditional skills like planting, cooking, and seed preservation.
Jose’s efforts extend to a local seed bank that supports farmers from surrounding communities. By sharing seeds and knowledge, he helps sustain the traditional crops and techniques that are crucial for future generations.
“We’re the Indigenous people of Belize, and we love to share who we are,” Jose says. “Many people around the world don’t even know we’re here, but we are. Still here. Still existing. Still living.”
This story originally appeared in National Geographic Traveller (UK).